The main, historic boulder of Tupàlò lies right next to the road running through the beautiful Gressoney Valley. Despite its easy access and rich history, you'll rarely see climbers testing their skills on its routes. Truly a gem for nature lovers, this spot is not for those who only chase ratings; every single move is a rewarding physical puzzle, demanding good technique, strong fingers and, above all, precise footwork.
ACCESS BY CAR
From Pont S. Martin, take the SR44 of the Lys Valley to Gaby. Pass the village and an avalanche gallery, go past the Hotel Fior di Roccia and you will reach the obvious boulder by the side of the road (approx. 19 km from Pont S. Martin). There is parking adjacent to the boulder.
ACCESS ON FOOT
To reach the Ròc Desor, you can take the road that turns right to the hamlet 100 m after the main boulder. Park near the main boulder and follow the path uphill, which leads to the crag in 5 minutes.
MAIN BOULDER OR TUPALÒ SECTOR
West face:
1) Via dello spigolo — 6c — 15 m — Up the arête
2) Lou berger di gilinni — 7a — 16 m — Slab
3) Climborazo — 6b — 15 m — Slab
4) Progetto — ? — 16 m — Project
5) Zio bet — 7b — 20 m — Slab
6) Sadomasosex — 7c — 19 m — Historic route by Andrea Gallo, probably the first 7c in the valley
7) The passenger — 8a+ — 19 m — Slab
8) All’est dell’eden — 7a — 19 m — Slab
9) Albertazzi — 7b — 19 m — Slab
South face:
1) Viaggio all’eden — 6b+ — 15 m — Slab and arête demanding clever reading
2) Petite fleur — 5b — 10 m — Friction slab with pockets
3) Bianchetti solo — 6c — 18 m — Single crux move
4) Via della lama — 6b — 19 m — Friction slab and then a flake
5) Tupalò — 6b+ — 27 m — Continues along the upper slab and joins Geko
6) Come un tuono — ? — 25 m — Project, only partially bolted
7) La diagonale des oiseaux — 7c+ — 18 m — Rarely repeated
Detached south boulder:
8) Beuchoud legend — 7b — 10 m — Crack starting between the detached boulder and the south face. Squeeze into the gap; the route stays between the two structures but is on the detached boulder
9) Olivia — 6b — 13 m — Crack
10) Passo mambo — 7b — 12 m — Slab then roof
East face:
11) Tucki rus — 6c — 12 m — Off-balance arête
12) Tango — 6b — 11 m — Finger-intensive fun
13) Chiomba — 6b+ — 12 m — Crux move at the top out
14) Baton a la maison — 7b — 7 m — Short thin crack
North face:
15) Sole e luna buongiorno — 4c — 13 m — Slab
16) Gatto boy — 4b — 16 m — Similar to the previous one
17) Gufetta — 5b — 18 m
18) Geko — 5c — 18 m — Final arête
ROC DESOR SECTOR
Sector discovered and bolted later on by Adriano Trombetta.
1) N.N — ? — Low-angle slab
2) Sky walk — 7b — 18 m — Slab
3) Demodé — 7c — 19 m — To the left of the prominent arête
4) Brigitte bardot — ? — 19 m — Climbs on the right of the arête
5) American guest — 8b/c — 21 m — Vertical slab
6) La foresta — ? — Route needs re-bolting
7) Bollicine — 8b+ — 20 m — Vertical slab, starts on La Foresta and then veers right
8) Mafia capitale — 8a+ — 20 m — Starts on Tempesta and then goes left
9) Tempesta — 7b — 23 m — Crack
10) Senza nome — 7a — 12 m — Short but not to be underestimated
ROC DU MEZ SECTOR
This sector is located just a few metres to the left of the path leading to the Roc Desor sector. There is only one route here, but it is truly magnificent, on a highly aesthetic overhanging prow.
1) Saetta Mc Queen — 8b — 9 m — Elegant overhang on pocketed quartz