Heading up the valley, past the village of Gaby, take a trail

indicated from the road by a wooden sign for the Parete del

Pentimento, just a few metres before the bridge crossing the Lys. In

about 40 minutes you will reach a clear gully, which you climb up the

centre following a faint path. In a few minutes you reach the base of the

first pedestal: from here you can climb up the first 3 pitches of route 1

or bypass the pedestal via a path to the left

which leads to the base of the wall in about 15 minutes.

NOTE: this sector is rarely visited. All routes were opened from the bottom, and a very demanding distance between protection points should be expected; not recommended for beginners or less experienced climbers.

1) La prima guardia: L1 5a, L2 6b, L3 6a; L4 6c+, L5 7a+/b, L67a.

NB: 13 quickdraws!

2) Grido d'allarme: L1 6b, L2 6b+, L3 6a+

3) Le maitre du jeu: L1 5c/6a, L2 6b, L3 6b+/c

4) Assente all'appello: L1 5c/6a (the same as route 3), L2 5b, L3 6a

5) Le mistère dévoilé: L1 6a, L2 6c+, L3 6c+/7a

6) L'essai : L1 5b, L2 5b/c, L3 6a+/b, L4 6a+/b

Descent: abseil with two 50m ropes