East face - Ost wand:

- Via Abbiati-Peano, 4+, II, AD-, 25m. This describes the likely first ascent "route" of the Pirubeck, completed on 14th August 1922. Given the features of this spectacular rock formation, which presents smooth walls with few handholds, they presumably tackled the monolith from its only weak spot: a wide crack located on the east face. They then continued the climb by bypassing the summit pinnacle with a "circular" progression, from left to right, looking for the easiest path before topping out on the sunny southern side. To safely enjoy this historic itinerary, you can secure yourself using the various bolts of the modern routes that cross it.

1) Hielz, 6c, 15m. Vertical wall with small crimps.

2) Anna Maria Piacentini, 6a, 15m. Follows part of the classic route (the wide crack probably used by the first climbers) and then moves left, overcoming a short vertical wall with athletic moves on good holds. Dedicated to the lady whose ashes rest inside the crack.

North face - Nord wand:

3) Smaug, L1: 5c+, L2: 6c, 40m. The first pitch follows some beautiful cracks with a short mantle to reach the belay station (classic route). The second pitch rides the crest of the dragon "Smaug" (from The Hobbit) with airy and engaging climbing to reach the summit.

4) Pirubeck, L1: 6a, L2: 5c+, L3: 3, 60m. This is the result of a great restoration and cleaning effort to create a modern route with a classic feel, designed to be as accessible as possible so climbers can experience reaching the very top of the monolith. It has an athletic start in a wide crack on the western face, then rises up the northern face to top out on the southern side. The first pitch winds nicely through cracks and ledges, exiting onto a vertical wall with crimps. The second pitch is technical on an open corner (the upper part of the classic route). The very easy third pitch bypasses any difficulties, leading comfortably to the summit (classic route exit).

West face - West wand:

5) Boffaz, L1: 6c, L2: 6b, L3: 6b, 55m. The first two pitches feature technical walls that require confidence and finger strength. L3 has a short vertical wall with a bouldery move. Very solid grading.

6) Wetter Gūage, 7b+, 30m. A brilliant mix of strength, technique, and endurance to conquer the central bulge. As beautiful as it is challenging.

- Straffal Variation, direct start to routes 6 and 7. Vertical wall with micro-holds that increases the difficulty by one grade: Wetter Güage at 7c and Hoacksch at 7b+.

7) Hoacksch, 7b, 30m. Beautiful climbing with an intense mid-section featuring a delicate finger move.

8) Wolf, 7c, 30m. Great intensity and endurance.

South Face:

9) Bljitzker, 7b+/c, 23m. Intense, technical finger-strength sections.

10) Sichju, 7a Direct, 6c+ Right, 23m. Intense, technical finger-strength sections.

11) Bearg Vhürer weg, L1: 6b, L2: 6b+ or 6a, 45m. The first pitch follows the beautiful Z-shaped crack created after the collapse caused by the 1968 earthquake. Opened from the ground up using pitons, presumably in the 1970s by the strong mountaineer and rock climber Ottavio Bastrenta and his partners. L2 goes straight (6b+) up a vertical wall then a technical slab; alternatively, climb to the left (6a) along an easy crack followed by a technical slab and a final vertical wall. Reaches the summit.

12) Overix, 7c+/8a, 28m. A variation of route 11 with a direct exit through the overhang. Features a bouldery section on a steep overhang.

13) Im Traum, 8a, 25m. First climbed by D. Frachey in November 2022. Demands technique and strength, leading to an airy exit.

14) Fidefix, ? 22m. A variation of route 15 with a direct exit through the overhang. Pure power. Project (unfinished).

15) Streeben, 6b+, 25m. A cracked corner followed by a vertical wall, exiting on the east face. Offers the possibility of reaching the summit.

TRANSLATION OF TERMINOLOGY FROM THE WALSER LANGUAGE: TÖITCHÙ

Hielz = smooth

Boffaz = boy

Wetter Güage = salamander

Straffal = grasshopper

Hoacksch = witch or fairy

Wolf = wolf

Bljizcker = lightning

Sichju = sickle (for hay)

Bearg Vhürer weg = The Mountain Guides' Route

Im traum = in the dream

Steeben = to climb

Ost wand = east face

Nord wand = north face

West wand = west face

Süd wand = south face