The Eastern Lyskamm 4,532 m

The Eastern Lyskamm 4,532 m

CATEGORY

Mountaineering

DIFFICULTY

A Moderate Challenge

ELEVATION GAIN

1,805 m

DURATION

2 days

SEASON

Summer

LOCATION

Mount Rosa

Overview

Lyskamm Orientale is the highest peak of the Lyskamm group within the majestic Monte Rosa massif. 
It was first summited on 19 August 1861 by the English climbing party Hardy-Ramsay and companions, followed in 1902 by the Gressoney guides Francesco Curtaz, Giacomo David and Alberto Lazier, who successfully scaled the south-east face.

A magnificent, long bastion of rock and ice, Lyskamm Orientale is an alluring and highly coveted peak that dominates the Monte Rosa skyline with its grand and inspiring presence. 

Please note: the ascent of Lyskamm Orientale is intended for experienced mountaineers. Before confirming the climb, our guides will kindly ask for your climbing resume and, if necessary, suggest a warm-up climb to ensure you have the best possible experience and preparation.

Since this classic ascent requires stable weather and excellent conditions, we can only set a tentative date initially, to be confirmed in the days leading up to the climb. For this reason, we cannot offer an all-inclusive rate with ski lifts and mountain huts, which will need to be booked closer to the date once conditions have been assessed. 

Season: From June to September 

Programme

FIRST DAY:

We meet at the Staffal lift ticket office at 2:30 pm. After a quick gear check, we take the lifts up to Punta Indren (3270 m). From there, we set off on foot and, in about an hour's hike, we reach the Rifugio Città di Mantova (3498 m), where we enjoy dinner and spend the night.

SECOND DAY:

We set off at dawn. In about 5 hours we ascend to the summit of Eastern Lyskamm (4532 m), crossing exposed ridge sections and steep slopes. After a brief pause at the peak to take in the views, we head back down to the Città di Mantova hut and then continue down to Punta Indren. We expect to be back in Staffal by around 4:30 pm. 

The mountaineering difficulty is moderate, with snow and ice slopes of around 45-50° and some exciting, exposed ridge sections. A good level of physical fitness and previous mountaineering experience are required. 

1 Participant

€800

Per person

The price includes: 

  • Guiding by an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide.

  • Harness and crampons. 

The price does NOT include:

  • Lift passes.

  • Half-board accommodation for the clients and the guide at the mountain hut (to be covered by the client). 

The most common questions

The most common questions

The most common questions

What to know before you set off

Mountaineering is by its very nature an adventurous activity. The Monte Rosa guides, all of whom are UIAGM certified, are dedicated to doing everything possible to minimise any hazards, but a element of risk is always present and should be embraced as part of the adventure before signing up for our activities.

The Monte Rosa Guides will always do their utmost to help you achieve your personal goals and ensure you have the best possible experience in nature. However, you must agree to trust their professional judgement whilst in the mountains and respect any decision they make, including turning back, should it be deemed necessary. Being well-prepared and maintaining a good level of physical fitness is essential to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey on all our excursions. If, due to fitness levels or any other reason, your guide feels you are not quite ready for your chosen activity, they will happily suggest alternative adventures beautifully suited to your current level of preparation.

Mountaineering is by its very nature an adventurous activity. The Monte Rosa guides, all of whom are UIAGM certified, are dedicated to doing everything possible to minimise any hazards, but a element of risk is always present and should be embraced as part of the adventure before signing up for our activities.

The Monte Rosa Guides will always do their utmost to help you achieve your personal goals and ensure you have the best possible experience in nature. However, you must agree to trust their professional judgement whilst in the mountains and respect any decision they make, including turning back, should it be deemed necessary. Being well-prepared and maintaining a good level of physical fitness is essential to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey on all our excursions. If, due to fitness levels or any other reason, your guide feels you are not quite ready for your chosen activity, they will happily suggest alternative adventures beautifully suited to your current level of preparation.

What to pack

  • 5 layers for the upper body: thermal base layer and a spare, fleece, a heavier fleece, down jacket, windproof shell. 

  • 2 pairs of gloves (one lightweight pair and one pair of ski gloves).

  • Windproof mountaineering trousers. 

  • Leggings/tights. 

  • Gaiters.

  • WATERPROOF, stiff-soled, high-ankle boots.

  • Two pairs of ski socks. 

  • A warm hat that covers your ears.

  • Sunglasses with high UV protection (category 3 or 4). 

  • Sunscreen and lip balm.

  • Ice axe (if you are experienced in using one).

  • Crampons and harness.

  • Head torch.

  • Sleeping bag liner. 

  • 1-litre water bottle/flask.

  • Telescopic trekking poles with snow baskets. 

  • Helmet (optional).

  • 5 layers for the upper body: thermal base layer and a spare, fleece, a heavier fleece, down jacket, windproof shell. 

  • 2 pairs of gloves (one lightweight pair and one pair of ski gloves).

  • Windproof mountaineering trousers. 

  • Leggings/tights. 

  • Gaiters.

  • WATERPROOF, stiff-soled, high-ankle boots.

  • Two pairs of ski socks. 

  • A warm hat that covers your ears.

  • Sunglasses with high UV protection (category 3 or 4). 

  • Sunscreen and lip balm.

  • Ice axe (if you are experienced in using one).

  • Crampons and harness.

  • Head torch.

  • Sleeping bag liner. 

  • 1-litre water bottle/flask.

  • Telescopic trekking poles with snow baskets. 

  • Helmet (optional).

insurance

Insurance for clients of Aosta Valley mountain guides

UNMISSABLE EXPERIENCES

GET IN TOUCH

Get in touch to plan your adventure

Tache (Church square and Town Hall), Gressoney-La-Trinité

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GET IN TOUCH

Get in touch to plan your adventure

Tache (Church square and Town Hall), Gressoney-La-Trinité

I have read and accept the privacy policy

GET IN TOUCH

Get in touch to plan your adventure

Tache (Church square and Town Hall), Gressoney-La-Trinité

I have read and accept the privacy policy

Guide office

Tache (Church square and Town Hall), Gressoney-La-Trinité

Community

Copyright © 2026 All rights reserved

Guide office

Tache (Church square and Town Hall), Gressoney-La-Trinité

Community

Copyright © 2026 All rights reserved

Guide office

Tache (Church square and Town Hall), Gressoney-La-Trinité

Community

Copyright © 2026 All rights reserved