Capanna Margherita, perched on the rocks of Punta Gnifetti, at an altitude of 4554m is the highest refuge in Europe, the pride of Monte Rosa and a coveted destination for mountaineers from all over the world.
The climb, while not technically complex, is nonetheless demanding due to the altitude reached and requires good training. The 1100 meters in altitude, necessary to reach it from the Mantova refuge, crossing the Lys glacier, make the climb a long high-altitude trek
Meeting with the guide at the Staffal lift ticket office at 2.30 pm, equipment check and ascent with the lifts to Punta Indren (3270 m). Departure on foot for the Città di Mantova refuge (3498 m), which will be reached in about 1 hour. Dinner and overnight.
Departure at dawn to reach Capanna Margherita in about 5 hours of climbing. After a brief stop, return to the Città di Mantova refuge and subsequent descent to Punta Indren.
Expected arrival atStaffal at approximately 4:30 pm
Difficulty: F – technically not difficult glacier excursion but with an important development for which good physical shape is required.
Duration of the ascent from the refuge Mantova: about 5 hours
Uphill difference from the refuge Mantova: about 1100 m
1 alpinist € 960,00 pp
2 alpinists € 550,00 pp
3 alpinists € 420,00 pp
4 alpinists € 350,00 pp
5 alpinists € 310,00 pp
max 5 alpinists € 360,00 pp
Anyone participating in a collective group agrees that a roped climb is a non-homogeneous group of people (max 5) who depend on each other and therefore it is necessary to adapt to the rhythm of the weakest and to all go back, in case one of the participants feels unwell
a UIAGM guide for the 2 day tour, half board at Capanna Gnifetti, return ticket by cable car, technical equipment (harness, crampons)
The climb to Margherita is for all the people who have a good level of training and know how to handle walks of 4/5h straight. You will reach the top in two steps, on the first day you’ll walk up the first part of the glacier, reaching the first hut in 1/1.5h. The difference in height between Gnifetti and Margherita, covered on the second day, is of 900m; that means that in order to reach the summit you’ll need to walk on a speed of 200/250m per hour in elevation.
The trip does not involve any particular technical difficulties but the path is entirely on high mountain, this tour is indeed a hike along the glacier where we will use a roped party, because the way crosses lareas with crevasses and the fall of somebody can easily be stopped by the weight of the others.
You will not find exposed points or edges to overcome; there are just two easy vie ferrate, one to reach Gnifetti hut and one to reach Cristo delle Vette peak.
Remember that acclimatization is the key to success! If you have lack of time the best choice is surely the two days trip, but we recommend you to sleep in Alagna or Gressoney the day before departure.
On this mountain trip, each guide is allowed to accompany maximum 5 climbers.