Western Lyskamm (Lyskamm occidentale) 4417 m

Climbed for the first time on 16 August 1864 by Leslie Stephen and Edward N. Buxton with Jakob Anderegg and Franz Biner, Western Lyskamm is a coveted peak due to its technical difficulty though not excessive and never disproportionate. The first section runs along the Felik glacier, then winds up steep slopes (45°) and ends with a fun final ridge. With good snow conditions the route is easier; however, if the bare ice emerges, the climb can be challenging.


Day 1

meeting with your guide at the ticket office at the Staffal ski lift at 2.30 pm, equipment checks and ascent on the ski lift to Colle Bettaforca (2700 m)
An approximate 3 and a half-hour hike to Refuge Quintino Sella (3585 m). Dinner and overnight.

Day 2
Departure at dawn and arrival at the summit of Western Lyskamm in about 5 hours. Using the same trail, we return to Quintino Sella, hike down to Colle Bettaforca and arrive in Staffal around 4.30 pm.

Difficulty: AD – moderate mountaineering difficulty, snow, and ice slope at 45°, exposed ridge sections. Good physical fitness and previous mountaineering experience are required.



  • 5 layers of clothing for the upper body (thermal shirt, light fleece, heavy fleece, down jacket, anorak.)
  • two set of gloves (soft and ski ones)
  • sunglasses (with 3 or 4 protection)
  • heavy trousers (windproof)
  • underpants
  • gaiters
  • rigid, ankle height, waterproof boots.
  • two pair of ski socks
  • headlamp
  • hat that covers your ears
  • bag sheet for the hut
  • sun screen & lip balm
  • poles
  • ice axe (if are used to it)
  • helmet is recommended but not compulsory
  • 1lt water bottle/thermos
  • harness & crampons


1 Alpinist € 700,00

The price includes:

a guide, rental of technical equipment: harness and crampons

The price DOES NOT include:
the ski lifts, half board for customers and the guide in the refuge (paid by the group).


Other details

Attention: the ascent to the Western Lyskamm is intended for expert mountaineers. Before accepting the ascent, our guides will ask for your curriculum vitae and, if necessary, will propose to make a climb to verify your skills and preparation
Since this type of ascent requires stable weather and excellent conditions, it is only possible to fix an indicative date, which must then be confirmed in the days preceding the departure. The rate including lifts and shelters may vary and must be fixed by date after evaluating the conditions

Mountaineering is a dangerous activity by nature, the Monte Rosa guides, all UIAGM certified, undertake to do everything possible to minimize the dangers but the risk can never be eliminated and must be accepted before registering for the our activities.

The Monte Rosa Guides will always do their best to help you achieve your goals and ensure you have the best possible experience; however you must agree to rely on their unquestionable judgment while you are in the mountains and to respect any decision they make, including the return, if it is deemed necessary. Being adequately prepared and having a minimum standard of fitness is necessary to maintain an adequate margin of safety in our activities. If, due to your physical condition or for any other reason, your guide decides that you are not ready for the activity you have chosen, you will be offered alternatives adapted to your level of preparation.