Mountain climbing

Eastern Lyskamm (Lyskamm Orientale) 4532 m

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Eastern Lyskamm is the highest peak of the Lyskamm group in the Monte Rosa massif.
It was conquered for the first time on 19 August 1861 by the English team Hardy-Ramsay and companions. In 1902 it was climbed along the southeast face by the Gressoney guides Francesco Curtaz, Giacomo David and Alberto Lazier. It is a long, imposing, and majestic bastion of rock and ice and a coveted and fascinating peak which dominates the skyline of Monte Rosa.

Program

Day 1
Meeting with your guide at the ticket office at the Staffal ski lift at 2.30 pm, equipment checks and ascent on the ski lift to Punta Indren (3270 m)
An approximate 1-hour hike to Refuge Citta di Mantova (3498 m). Dinner and overnight.

Day 2
Departure at dawn and arrival at the summit of Lyskamm Orientale (4532 m) in about 5 hours. After a brief pitstop at the summit, we return to Refuge Mantova to descend to Punta Indren. Expected arrival in Staffal around 4.30pm.

Difficulty: AD – moderate climbing difficulties, snow and ice slope at 45-50°, exposed ridge sections. Good physical fitness and previous mountaineering experience are absolute musts.
Duration of the ascent from Refuge Mantova: about 5 hours
Elevation uphill from Refuge Mantova: about 1050 m

Necessary equipment

5 layers of clothing for the upper body (thermal shirt, light fleece, heavy fleece, down jacket, anorak.)
two set of gloves (soft and ski ones)
sunglasses (with 3 or 4 protection)
heavy trousers (windproof)
underpants
gaiters
rigid, ankle height, waterproof boots.
two pair of ski socks
headlamp
hat that covers your ears
bag sheet for the hut
sun screen & lip balm
poles
ice axe (if are used to it)
helmet is recommended but not compulsory
1lt water bottle/thermos
harness & crampons

Price

1 alpinist € 750,00

The price includes:

your guide, rental of climbing equipment: ice axe, harness and crampons.

Not included in the cost:
ski lift rides, half board at the refuge for the guide and clients, drinks and any extras at the refuge, lunch on the second day.

Other details

Attention: the ascent to Eastern Lyskamm is intended for expert mountaineers. Before accepting the ascent, our guides will ask for your curriculum vitae and, if necessary, you will be asked to go for a climb to verify your skills and preparation.

As this type of ascent requires stable weather and excellent conditions, it is only possible to fix an indicative date, which must then be fixed in the days prior to the actual ascent. For this type of climb, we cannot offer a rate that includes ski lifts and overnight shelter at the refuge, and these must be fixed by date after assessing the conditions.